Water-lily textile

Associated Artists

An item at Metropolitan Museum of Art

This water-lily textile is one example of Wheeler’s innovative and justifiably famous "shadow silks." To make these fabrics a special warp-printing technique was employed: the warp (the vertical threads) was preprinted with the pattern beforehand, and when the solid-colored horizontal weft threads were woven in, the designs naturally fell slightly out of alignment. The twill weave creates a noticeable diagonal rib, and light reflects off the ribbed surface, further softening the printed design. These blurring effects, suggesting reflections on water, are heightened by the iridescence resulting from the use of contrasting colors for the warp and the weft—here, gold (warp) and pink (weft).

The American Wing

An exhibit at Metropolitan Museum of Art

The American Wing's ever-evolving collection comprises some 20,000 works of art by African American, Euro American, Latin American, and Native American men and women. Ranging from the colonial to early-modern periods, the holdings include painting, sculpture, works on paper, and decorative arts—including furniture, textiles, ceramics, glass, silver, metalwork, jewelry, basketry, quill and bead embroidery—as well as historical interiors and architectural fragments.

Metropolitan Museum of Art