Brooch

Jaques & Marcus

An item at Metropolitan Museum of Art

The body of this insect-form brooch is set with a large natural gray-green pearl and eight demantoid garnets; the head is pave-set with two demantoid garnets and diamond eyes. All of the gems are set in naturalistically chased gold, and six delicate gold legs extend from the body. The hook is marked 'J&M,' for Jaques & Marcus, a New York City jewelry firm active from about 1882 to 1892. The piece survives in its original case, a green velvet box lined in cream-colored satin and velvet, and marked inside the lid with 'JAQUES & MARCUS/BROADWAY/CORN 17TH. ST./NEW YORK.' During the nineteenth century an increased interest in natural history contributed to a vogue for novelty jewelry in the form of birds, animals and especially insects. Fashionable ladies became enamored with these creepy bugs made from precious materials, and happily pinned jeweled insects to their hairdos and gowns.

The American Wing

An exhibit at Metropolitan Museum of Art

The American Wing's ever-evolving collection comprises some 20,000 works of art by African American, Euro American, Latin American, and Native American men and women. Ranging from the colonial to early-modern periods, the holdings include painting, sculpture, works on paper, and decorative arts—including furniture, textiles, ceramics, glass, silver, metalwork, jewelry, basketry, quill and bead embroidery—as well as historical interiors and architectural fragments.

Metropolitan Museum of Art